Bharatpur 2013


Something remarkable has happened over the last year and a half. Due to reasons I cannot explain properly, I have found myself drawn to one of nature’s best creations – birds. Over the last year or so, i joined online groups, went for birding walks, bought books and read them from cover to cover. I really surprised myself when i started waking up before sunrise on weekends to go for birding walks.

The timing could not be better. My eight year old Nikon D80 was in its dying days and it was time to upgrade. So i invested in the brand new Nikon D7100 and the Sigma 50-500 OS HSM telephoto lens. Now that I have read the books, shot some birds in my garden and in and around Delhi, it was time to take a trip to that Mecca birders call Bharatpur.

Last time I went to Bharatpur was over two and a half years back. Back then I could not tell the Sarus crane from the Painted Stork. But now i can do just that. Not much else. Bharatpur was in a bad shape in the February of 2011 when i was last there. The water levels were almost at an all-time low. Feral cattle had taken over most of the pastures. Politicians were , well politicing on the much needed water and the whole thing was a big, big mess. Fortunately, the water issues have been resolved. Now water will come in from Chambal as well as from a dam nearby in Rajasthan. The canals were full and so were the marshes. When I went in the beginning of November, the numbers of migratory birds were not large but i think if they can maintain the water levels for a few more years, the numbers will steadily increase.

THE HABITAT

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It was the first day of the boat rides. The water was quiet and quite spectacular
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The channel opens up on the main swamp, which is guarded by a flock of fierce and fearless cattle egrets
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Other people
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Still waters
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This algae turns red around February. Even more spectacular
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View of the heronry from the watchtower
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Perfect habitat for munias
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One of Bharatpur’s many tree tunnels
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Another swamp from another watch-tower. Hendrix was playing on my headphones. Guess the track ūüėõ
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I check out some nilgais. They reciprocate
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Stranded tree
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Mirror-like water
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Quiet little corner
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Marooned Nilgai

THE GUIDE

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In the numerous recent Delhibird walks, I met Mr Ajay Maira who was kind enough to point me in the direction of one Bachchoo Singh (+919351341917). I was with him from sunrise to sunset for three days and not for a moment did the smile fade from his face. He knew his birds, drove the rickshaw at a languid pace and was quick with a joke.  I cannot recommend him enough.

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Bachchoo Singh
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Finds me Sarus cranes to shoot then goes to fetch his rickshaw

THE BIRDS (and some amphibians, reptiles and mammals)

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I think it is safe to say that I am more of a photographer than a birder. Apart from a handful of birds that I could identify (sarus cranes, painted storks and a few others :P), i was dependent on my field guide and of course, on Bachchoo Singh. I could have really used a tripod though. The camera and the lens together weigh close to 3kgs and getting the frame right was a challenge, especially at 500 mm. Anyway, here’s what came out of the trip:

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Greater Coucal or Crow Pheasant (Centropus sinensis)
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Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) – not the best of shots, but i love this one
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‘What have you got there? Is it for me?’
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Portrait of a bee-eater
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A slightly cock-eyed White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) also known as the White-breasted Kingfisher
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Woolly-necked Stork, Bishop Stork or White-necked Stork (Ciconia episcopus)
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Painted stork with chicks. The mothers open their wings thus to protect the chicks from direct sunlight. In this case the mother clearly does not know where the sun is. Or maybe she is just sunning herself.
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Jungle Babbler (Turdoides striata)

I love munias especially so because due to their small size and the constant state of motion they are in, they are extremely difficult to photograph. On this trip, i also saw a few Red Avadavats or the Red Munias but could not photograph them. A couple of silverbills did pose for me.

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The Indian Silverbill or White-throated Munia (Lonchura malabarica)
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Cosying up
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One comes closer
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I wish this was a better shot.
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Collared Scops Owl (Otus lettia)
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The resident Comb Ducks (Sarkidiornis melanotos), males
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The Himalayan, or the White-cheeked Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucogenys)
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Indian Grey Hornbill (Ocyceros birostris), male
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Shikra (Accipiter badius). About the size of a small crow, it is one of my favourite birds of prey. Packs way too much punch for its size. I have seen it chase off Oriental Honey Buzzards with are about four times the Shikra’s size.
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Shikra, this time viewed from the back
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Bronze-winged Jacana (Metopidius indicus), also called the jal-mor (water peacock) in Hindi on account of its stunning colour
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A male Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) was kind enough to pose for me

House sparrows which we have seen all around us are undergoing an alarming decline in numbers, especially in human-inhabited ares due to human activities. Read this to know more about the decline and how you can help.

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The House Sparrow (Passer domesticus)
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Portrait of a Great Egret (Ardea alba)
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Bay-backed Shrike (Lanius vittatus), back view
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Bay-backed Shrike (Lanius vittatus), front view
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Was stalking this Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) for over 45 minutes in very bad light conditions hoping for a record shot. Just when i had my lens trained on it, it decided to fly. This is what came of it
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Finally the Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela) decides to sit so i could get off some shots
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Why did the chicken cross the road? Ask the White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus)
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Common Babbler (Turdoides caudata)
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Oh the colours – Back view of White-breasted Kingfisher
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Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri), also known as Chandana. Popularly also referred to as Mithoo
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Asian Koel (Eudynamys scolopaceus) male
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Yellow-crowned Woodpecker (Dendrocopos mahrattensis) or Mahratta woodpecker, female
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Purple Sunbird (Cinnyris asiaticus) female. It is known in Bengali as ‘Moutushi’
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A male Pied Bush Chat (Saxicola caprata
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Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus)
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Oriental Darter or Indian Darter (Anhinga melanogaster ). Also known as the snakebird on account of its serpentine neck
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A snakebird, or the Indian Darter pokes its head out of the water while hunting
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A group of great cormorants strike a pose
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Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea) keeps an eye on the surroundings
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Just before some poor fish gave its life
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Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), flying away
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Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) shares its hunting spot with an Intermediate Egret (Mesophoyx intermedia)
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Grey heron with neck retracted
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Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis) or ‘Doel’ as it is known in Bangla. Also, the national bird of Bangladesh
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Oriental Magpie-Robin (Copsychus saularis) or ‘Doel’ female
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Another one. I love these birds
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Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio)
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A bunch of pretty ladies. A brood of Purple Swamphens
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Hoopoe, pronounced huňźpu (Upupa epops). Looks like a woodpecker, but isn’t one
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Portrait of a Hoopoe
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A baby python sunning itself
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Could have lost it in all the vegetation
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A water snake, at a water hole
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A monitor lizard
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Close-up of the monitor lizard’s head
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In Bengali, we call these fish ‘Shole’. Tastes great in a coriander based jhol (gravy)
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Chance encounter with a pair of male nilgais
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Another male Nilgai.
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Nilgai female with calf. So beautiful!
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Close encounters of the blue kind
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Indian black turtle (Melanochelys trijuga) or Indian pond terrapin
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A beautiful little butterfly
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And a beautiful little lizard

In the three days that i spent inside Keoladeo National Park, two sightings stand out. The first was a creature I had seen a lot as a child growing up in north Bengal (for images of north Bengal, or Dooars as it is better known see this, this, this and this). The sun had just come out and i was walking beside Bachchoo Singh, trying to shoot a pair of grey headed canary flycatchers. Suddenly this black shape slithers out of the grass on the left side of the road. It was a common cobra. The same creature that almost left me fatherless, but that is a story for another day. As i drew closer, it showed absolutely no sign of fear and started to cross the road.

I could tell that it had just molted and the scales were shining in the morning sun like thousands of little amethysts. I probably got a little too close when without warning, it spread its hood. I was fortunate to get the perfect light and just had time to get off a few shots. here are the results:

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Eyes glinting in the sun
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Close look at the skin
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When you see this, back off
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last shot before it slithers back into the thicket

Now the second encounter: Sarus cranes. I have been an admirer of these beautiful birds for years now. Even before i got into birding. So far, I have always viewed them from a considerable distance, at Sultanpur and Basai. This time,however, i was determined to observe them from up close.

On the first and second days at Bharatpur I heard their calls numerous times, saw them fly past and watched them for hours again from a distance. So I decided to devote my third and last day entirely to these most elegant of birds. As we entered the park at 6:30 am on a chilly November morning, we headed straight to the grasslands by the painted stork colony where they usually spend the mornings. Sure enough, there was a couple there, but again, at a considerable distance.

There were three other pairs in the general area and they were taking turns answering each others calls. On Bachchoo Singh’s advice, i started following one of the distant calls along one of the trails branching off from the main road into the sanctuary. I walked for some 3 kms and with every step the call kept getting closer and closer. Then i turned left and BAM! there was a crane barely 30 feet from the trail. It took me the better part of five minutes to actually register what I was seeing. It was a female and she was so close that i did not have to employ the 500 mm end of my lens. The light was perfect too! The first shot below is from the original couple i viewed from a distance. The rest are from the close encounter.

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Responding to a call
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Ladies and gentlemen, presenting the Grus Antigone
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The ballerina
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Spreading her wings. I was late with the shot here
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In her habitat

Thus ended a most satisfying trip to the paradise for birders. Here’s hoping that the water levels remain true and the bird numbers remain large. Also it wouldn’t hurt if a couple of Siberian cranes re-visited their old haunt.

Here’s to high hopes.

SPECIES SEEN

1. Black francolin (Francolinus francolinus) Resident, Breeds

2. Grey francolin (Francolinus pondicerianus) Resident, Breeds, very common

3. Indian Peafowl (Pavo cristatus) Resident Common

4. Lesser Whistling-duck (Dendrocygna javanica) Resident Common

5. Greylag Goose (Anser anser) Migratory, very common

6. Comb Duck (Sarkidiornis melanotos) Resident, common

7. Spot-billed Duck (Anas poecilorhyncha) Resident, common

8. Northern Pintail (Anas acuta) Migratory, very common

9. Northern Shoveler (Anas clypeata) Migratory, very common

10. Eurasian Wryneck (Jynx torquilla) Migrant, common

11. Brown-capped Woodpecker (Dendrocopos nanus) Resident

12. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker (Dendrocopos mahrattensis) Resident

13. Back-rumped Flameback (Dinopium benghalense) resident, breeds

14. Indian Grey-Hornbill (Ocyceros birostris) resident, breeds

15. Eurasian Hoopoe (Upupa epops) Resident and migrant

16. Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis) Resident, common

17. Common Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) common resident

18. White-thoated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis) resident, very common

19. Black-capped Kingfisher (Halcyon pileata) LM, U

20. Little Green Bee-eater (Merops orientalis) Resident common

21. Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Merops philippinus) passage migrant

22. Asian Koel (Eudynamys scolopacea) R,O

23. Greater Coucal (Centropus sinensis) R,C

24. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Psittacula krameri) R,C

25. Collared Scops Owl (Otus bakkamoena) R,O

26. Dusky Eagle-Owl (Bubo coromandus) R,C

27. Spotted Owlet (Athene brama) R,C

28. Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) R,C

29. Laughing Dove (Streptopelia senegalensis) R,C

30. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis) LM,U

31. Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto) R,C

32. Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon (Treron phoenicoptera) R,C

33. Sarus Crane (Grus antigone) Resident, breeds, common

34. White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus) Resident, very common

35. Watercock (Gallicrex cinerea) breeds

36. Purple Swamphen (Porphyrio porphyrio) R,C

37. Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) RM,C

38. Common Coot (Fulica atra) very common migrant

39. Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) M,C

40. Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos) M,O

41. Bronze-winged Jacana (Metopidius indicus) R,C

42. Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus) LM,C

43. Pied Avocet (Recurvirostra avosetta) LM,U

44. Lesser Sand Plover (Charadrius mongolus) ?

45. Red-wattled Lapwing (Vanellus indicus) R,C

46. Sociable Lapwing (Vanellus gregarius) Migrant uncommon

47. Oriental Honey-buzzard (Pernis ptilorhyncus) R,C

48. Black Kite (Milvus migrans) R,U

49. Crested Serpent-Eagle (Spilornis cheela) LM,C

50. Eurasian Marsh-Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) M,C

51. Shikra (Accipiter badius) R,C

52. Oriental Hobby (Falco severus) M,U

53. Oriental darter (Anhinga melanogaster) R,C

54. Little Cormorant (Phalacrocorax niger) R,C

55. Indian cormorant (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis) R,C

56. Great cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) R,C

57. Little egret (Egretta garzetta) R,C

58. Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) R,C

59. Purple heron (Ardea purpurea) R,C

60. Great egret (Casmerodius albus) R,C

61. Intermediate egret (Mesophoyx intermedia) R,C

62. Cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis) R,C

63. Indian pond heron (Ardeola grayii) R,C

64. Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) R,C

65. Little bittern (Ixobrychus minutus) LM,U

66. Black Bittern (Dupetor flavicollis) LM,O

67. Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) LM,C

68. Black-headed ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus) R,C

69. Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia Linnaeus) RC,O

70. Painted Stork (Mycteria leucocephala) R,C breeds in large numbers

71. Asian Openbill (Anastomus oscitans) R,C, breeds

72. Wooly-necked Stork (Ciconia episcopus) R,C, breeds

73. White Stork (Ciconia ciconia) M,U

74. Black-necked Stork (Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus) R,C

75. Brown Shrike (Lanius cristatus) M,U

76. Bay-backed Shrike (Lanius vittatus) R,C

77. Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach) LM,C

78. Rufous Treepie (Dendrocitta vagabunda) R,C

79. House Crow (Corvus splendens) R,C

80. Large-billed Crow (Corvus macrorhynchos) R,C

81. Eurasian Golden Oriole (Oriolus oriolus) BM,O

82. Scarlet Minivet (Pericrocotus flammeus) LM,O

83. Black Drongo (Dicrurus macrocercus) R,C

84. Common Woodshrike (Tephrodornis pondicerianus) R,C

85. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis) M,U

86. Oriental Magpie Robin (Copsychus saularis) R,C

87. Indian Robin (Saxicoloides fulicata) R,C

88. Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros) M,C

89. Common Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) R,O

90. Pied Bushchat (Saxicola caprata) R,C

91. Grey Bushchat (Saxicola ferrea) LM,U

92. Indian or Brown Rock Chat (Cercomela fusca) R,C

93. Brahminy Starling (Sturnus pagodarum) R,C

94. Rosy Starling (Sturnus roseus) M,O

95. Common Starling (Sturnus vulgaris) M,O

96. Asian Pied Starling (Sturnus contra) R,C

97. Common Myna (Acridotheres tristis) R,C

98. Bank Myna (Acridotheres ginginianus) R,O

99. White-eared Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucotis) R,C

100. Red-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus cafer) R,C

101. Ashy Prinia (Prinia socialis) R,O

102. Plain Prinia (Prinia inornata) R,C

103. Oriental White-Eye (Zosterops palpebrosus) R,O

104. Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius) R,C

105. Common Babbler (Turdoides caudatus) R,C

106. Jungle Babbler (Turdoides striatus) R,C

107. Purple Sunbird (Nectarinia asiatica) R,C

108. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) M,O

109. Red Avadavat (Amandava amandava) R,C

110. Indian Silverbill (Lonchura malabarica) R,C

Symbols used(in alphabetic order).

? = status or source or occurrence unknown or doubtful

C = Common

Evans = Bharatpur Bird Paradise by Martin Evans

HA = Checklist by Humayun Abdulali and Pandey

Handbook = Salim Ali & S.D. Ripley’s Compact Handbook

LM = Local Migrant

O = Occasional

PM = Passage Migrant

R = Resident

SM = Summer Migrant

U = Uncommon

VSS = Flora and Fauna by V.S. Saxena

VSV =VSVijayan(BNHS publications or Ramsar site booklet)

WM = Winter Migrant(Migratory in the list usually refers to this category)

Bird it Like Bharatpur


This post was long overdue. I was travelling a lot in the early part of the year. A family engagement took me to Kolkata, from where i branched off into rural Bengal. That was January. In February came one long trip across a hitherto unexplored swathe of Madhya Pradesh. Later, in March i found myself in Uttarakhand. In the middle of all these long travels, one weekend, me and my friend Imroz Adeeb visited the Keoladeo Ghana National Park at Bharatpur over the weekend.

Being a history nerd, i could not resist the nearby Deeg, so we modified our route a bit. We followed the National Highway 2 to Mathura from where we turned right towards Govardhan and eventually to Deeg. After driving on the flawless but boring tarmac of the NH, the tiny, bumpy roads seemed like heaven-sent.

Route

But if you are driving on this road, don’t get too excited by the spreading mustard fields and the quaint hamlets around you. There are many unmarked speed breakers on this stretch and if you are not paying attention, ¬† they might break your vehicles and you even. Although we went to Deeg first, I am going to move ahead and talk about Bharatpur. Deeg I will post later.

Somewhere on the road to Mathura
Dope gets a break

The area around Mathura is generally referred to as Braj bhoomi, or the ‘land of Krishna’. Mythologically speaking, this is where Krishna grew up and did all those things we remember him for (steal butter, steal clothes of bathing beauties, herd cows and lift a chariot wheel, among others). So, every now and then, the tiny road weaves through a tiny town, dominated by an oversized and multi-coloured temple.

We had left home quite early in the morning and as a result, reached Deeg before 10 am. We idled around the palace complex for a couple of hours before heading towards Bharatpur. Just as the dusty little town came into sight – DISASTER! The clutch cable broke off while I was doing about 100 kph. I somehow managed to bring down the speed to around 40 kph. I knew that if the bike stopped, we would have to push it for around 5 kms, so I downshifted somehow and continued towards the town. Asked a couple of passing motorcyclists about the location of a good bullet mechanic and as it turns out, one of them were on our way! I also had a spare cable with me, which was fortunate because finding a spare would be like searching for a needle in a dusty, crowded town!

Morning mist

We had initially planned to foray into the park for a little while in the afternoon and spend more time again the next morning. However, the clutch wire¬†episode¬†ensured that by the time we got into the hotel, it was already dark. For those who have not been to Bharatpur, the Park lies south of the National Highway 11 that connects Agra with Jaipur. As we had been to Deeg, we approached the town from the north, negotiated the endless crowded lanes and reached the southern part of the town where all the hotels are located within 500 m of the park’s entrance.

There are three ways of exploring the park Рon a rickshaw, on a bicycle and on foot. We tried to hire a bike, but none of them were free. So we turned to the rickshaw, which in retrospect was a good idea. The rickshaw pullers are authorised guides and are pretty fluent in English. Our guide РHardev Singh Р even surprised us by quoting Salim Ali and throwing at us almost unpronounceable  scientific names of birds.

Beams of light.

Keoladeo Ghana National Park is largely man-made. It was developed in 1899 by Prince Harbhanji of Morvi in Gujarat as a duck hunting reserve.  He constructed bunds and dykes all around the saucer-shaped depression in the outskirts of Bharatpur and increased its water holding capacity. It remained a notified forest for years before being granted the status of a National Park in  1981. In 1985 it was designated by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.  It sprawls over an area of 29 sq kms.

Prime habitat

The park is a mosaic of grasslands, woodlands, woodland swamps and wetland. This diverse habitat is home to 375 species of avifauna. In addition to this, it also has 372 species of plants, 34 species of mammals and 14 species of snakes. ¬†Right¬†as you enter the gate, on both sides of the road are open grasslands and patches of bush. Around a¬†kilometer¬†from the gate, on both sides of the road, the swamps begin. The water is covered with red and green algae which is the main food for many of the birds as well as the park’s large deer population. Apart from being the foundation of the food chain, the multicoloured algae is spectacular to look at. Certain closed swamps, where the algae is cultured and eventually distributed across the park, look almost dreamlike.

The road ends near a temple and right in front of you in the large, main swamp of Bharatpur. Little mud islands, covered with birds, both endemic and migratory dot the swamp.

Bharatpur Habitat
Bharatpur Habitat
Bharatpur Habitat
Window!
Bharatpur Habitat
Bharatpur Habitat
Closeup of the algae

If you are a budding bird-lover like me, the best time to visit the park is from November to February when you can see a large number of migratory birds. The park, however is open throughout the year and continues to attract serious ornithologists who come here to study the endemic species.

Painted storks (Mycteria leucocephala) are the most visible birds in the sanctuary. This is not only because of their large numbers and large size, but also due to the fact that they make a tremendous racket. As the name suggests, the adult birds are quite colorful. The youngsters, on the other hand are a dull shade of grey and start putting on colour when they are about four months old.

Adult Painted Stork
Painted Stork in flight!
Painted Stork in flight!
Painted Stork in flight!
A colony of juvenile Painted Storks

Another bird we saw a lot of was the Indian Roller (Coracias benghalensis). I grew up in rural Bengal where this bird, locally called neelkanth (blue-throat, a reference to its obvious colouration), is a common sight. Its only after i saw  it here, after so many years that i realised how beautiful it actually is. One i sighted on a low branch slightly off the main track. I successfully managed to tread the distance without disturbing the bird and captured a few shots.

Indian roller
Indian Roller – another angle
Indian Roller in flight
Drying the morning dew from its wings!

Being a marsh, there is an obvious abundance of kingfishers – particularly the Halcyon smyrnensis¬†or the white breasted kingfisher. These birds appeared to be surprisingly bold and remained still even when i was barely an arm’s length away.¬†¬†These brilliantly coloured birds are quick and one of the world’s most efficient hunters.

White breasted kingfisher
A juvenile
Hunter in the reeds

Of the many species of egrets, we saw three РGreat egret, intermediate egret and the little egret.  The difference in these three are, as the names suggest, mainly in terms of size. But frankly i might have seen more but failed to identify as many of the egret sub-species vary very little in appearance and can be said apart only by the most expert ornithologist.

Little egret
Intermediate egret, landing on a mud island
Great egret
Great egret

Related to the egrets and herons is the ibis. Of the many varieties found worldwide, Bharatpur is home to two РGlossy ibis (Plegadis falcinellus) and the black-headed ibis (Threskiornis melanocephalus). Of the two we just saw the latter, and that too in large number. However although they were obviously many, all of them were concentrated on the farthest corner of the main marsh. Ibises have a beak that is curved forwards which helps it sift through the mud for small crustaceans.

A black-headed ibis with a coot in the background
Another stalks the reeds
Caught in the act
Ibis family

Also in the central marsh we saw two other beautiful water-birds. The first was the wooly-necked stork (Ciconia episcopus). They are found across the globe fro m the grasslands of Africa to India and as far east as Indonesia. In spite of the vast geographic field and their ‘least Concern’ status in the IUCN list, we saw just one bird.

The other was the bar-headed geese  (Anser indicus) which migrate here every winters from the distant Siberia. There were a huge flock of these at the marshes but for some reason they never really took flight. As a result the desire to capture the image of a huge flock of birds in flight has to date remained  a fantasy. Interestingly, they are thought to be the highest flying birds in the world. Tagged individuals have been noted to have flown over Mt Makalu (8,841 m), the fifth highest mountain in the world.

Wooly-necked stork resting on a branch
Wooly-necked stork in flight!
Bar-headed geese roosting about
Bar-headed geese in flight

Apart from the main, circular swamp, the little marshes on the die of the main road also hold a huge population of birds, mainly painted storks, spoonbills  (Platalea leucorodia), grey herons (Ardea cinerea), cormorants (little and great), darters (Anhinga melanogaster ), etc. The waters are rich in algae and crustaceans and can support a large number of birds and the occasional nilgai and sambar.

The rich marshes
Roosting painted storks
More roosting painted storks
A grey heron stands guard
A lonely spoonbill
A darter dries its wings, waiting for the next dive
Now do you see why darters are also called snake-birds?
The beautiful colours!
Turtles!

Apart from the obvious water-birds, two other sightings record special mention. The first is the spotted owlet (Athene brama), and like the Indian Roller, i had seen a lot of these growing up in the village. It was nice to see them again.

Two of a kind!
Obscured by branches
And a clearer view!

Then there was the nightjar, which definitely was one of the highlights of the trip. Credit here goes totally to our guide who spotted it out of nowhere. These nocturnal birds rest during the daytime and often on the ground. It was so well camouflaged against the foliage that it actually took us some time to see the actual bird even though it was only a few feet from us. The particular species is not clear. Maybe the pros out there can help. Looks like it is a large-tailed nightjar (Caprimulgus macrurus)

Eyes as black as the night!
Clearer view

Other birds:

Please help me identify this one..
a common parakeet flies past a Rufous-tailed Shrike (Lanius isabellinus)
A yellow-legged green pigeon (Treron phoenicoptera)

I know the park is famous for its feathered residents, it also has a significant number of mammals as well and we did get to see some. One of the first animals we saw upon entering the park was a jackal  (Canis aureus). We kept getting glimpses of this slippery customer throughout the park.

Calling out to its mates
Feasting on a leopard kill!

Nilgais ¬†(Boselaphus tragocamelus)¬†are a common sight in Delhi and its outskirts and so it was not a big surprise to see it Bharatpur. But still, hand on heart, i’d rather see a pack of nilgais in the wild than a tiger in a cage.

Face-to-face with a female Nilgai
Another female basks in the morning sun
And the male waits a little distance away
Did come across some dead ones as well

We saw surprisingly little of the cheetals (Axis axis). Early in our trip, we noticed a Crested Serpent Eagle in the distance and decided to go towards it, and on the way, we were surprised by a herd of them (they also surprised the bird, who immediately took to the skies).

The herd!
Closer

In the middle of a forest, just before the main swamp is a shiva temple which gave Keoladeo Ghana National Park its name. Here, in a fenced off enclosure is a tiny canteen where one can buy chips, snacks and water. here we came across some super friendly squirrels who would eat the chips right off our hands.

The pretty little clearing… a nice place to rest a little
Would he bite the hand that feeds?
Imroz tries to lure one. Our guide couldn’t be bothered!
He was a good guide, though!

My most interesting encounter, however, was with a pack of wild boar. I was walking off the trail in knee-high grass when i was alerted by the sounds of grunting. I immediately turned to face a pack of wild boars which comprised on a few juveniles and the mother. All the wild boars we had seen so far were small and this was no exception, so i decided to take it lightly. When i moved ever so little, just to raise my camera to take a photograph, the mother charged. Fortunately for me, it was just a half charge, meant to scare me off and trust me, it had the desired effect. No matter what the size of the wild animal, never, even un-intentionally threaten the kids!

Warning! Wild boar crossing!
The standoff!

Another sight, and this time pretty, was a pack of Sambar (Rusa unicolor) grazing ion the marshes, feeding on the algae. We were just a few paces away and the animals were thankfully unmindful of us. The colours of the water and the grace of the animals made for a fantastic sight.

The sambar of Bharatpur
A female sambar
The leader of the pack keeps a close eye on possible threats!

It had been a good trip, and with the exception of the pythons (which, being February, must have been hibernating) and the sarys crane, we had seen almost all the birds and beasts we had come to see, and then some. What i enjoyed the most was that one could simply walk on the paths and spot wildlife. Sometimes its good not to have a tiger around! I am writing this almost a year after i went there, and already in my mind, i am planning a return. Can anyone lend me a telephoto (Nikon mount) for a weekend?

Leaving you with these two images:

Bharatpur tracks
Waiting to walk these roads!